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quinta-feira, 23 de dezembro de 2021

Eggnog ("gemada de Natal")

(ENGLISH VERSION BELOW) 

O eggnog é uma bebida tradicional na América do Norte na época de Natal. Feita com ovos, açúcar, leite, creme de leite e especiarias, tem sabor de sobremesa, e a mistura normalmente recebe uma bebida alcoólica como ingrediente adicional para ser servida aos adultos. Eu tentei seguir, nesta semana, uma receita de eggnog que encontrei na internet e compartilho aqui o resultado dessa experiência.


Vale ressaltar que essa bebida não faz parte dos costumes brasileiros. Portanto, essa não só foi a primeira vez que eu preparei o eggnog, mas foi também a primeira vez que eu provei a bebida. 

A receita que segui foi a disponível neste link. Ela usa apenas gemas de ovos, não as claras (que minha esposa fritou em separado como um lanche salgado).

- 6 gemas de ovo
- 100g de açúcar
- 480mL de leite
- 240mL de "creme pesado" (creme de leite fresco)
- 1/4 de colher de chá de canela em pó
- 1/4 de colher de chá de cravo em pó
- 1/4 de colher de chá de noz moscada ralada
- uma pitada de sal
- 1/4 de colher de chá de essência de baunilha.
- 60ml de uma bebida alcoólica (conhaque, uísque ou rum)


Primeira tentativa


O ingrediente mais incomum aqui no Brasil é provavelmente o "creme pesado", que encontrei aqui como "creme de leite fresco" - é este o tipo de creme de leite aqui no Brasil que tem 35% de gordura, algo muito próximo do "creme pesado" da receita, contra cerca de 20% do creme de caixinha, o mais comum por aqui. O "creme de leite fresco" é vendido em garrafas em prateleiras refrigeradas nos supermercados. 

Na minha primeira tentativa, em casa, dois dos ingredientes que usei eram diferentes dos da receita original: usei açúcar mascavo em vez de açúcar branco refinado; e usei leite desnatado em vez de leite integral.

Comecei batendo as seis gemas com pouco mais de 100 gramas de açúcar mascavo em uma tigela. Em uma panela com cabo, coloquei o leite, o "creme de leite fresco", três cravos (em vez de usar cravo em pó), um pouco de canela em pó que coloquei "no olho", sem medir, e ralei um pouco de noz moscada que também coloquei "no olho". E, ainda, a pitada de sal.

Aqueci a panela mexendo constantemente. Quando algumas bolhas apareceram, eu desliguei o fogo e despejei o conteúdo da panela na mistura de ovo com açúcar, batendo sem parar. Depois, despejei o conteúdo da tigela de volta na panela com cabo e de novo aqueci. Mexi um pouco enquanto a mistura aquecia, mas parava às vezes para ver se já haviam começado a subir algumas bolhas. Quando elas começaram a aparecer, desliguei o fogo.

Adicionei, então, a essência de baunilha (também não medi, apenas coloquei um pouco numa colher de sopa e adicionei). Mexi um pouco mais e coei com a ajuda da  minha esposa. Foi aí que percebi que havia bolotas um pouco mais grossas na mistura, e o líquido estava menos grosso do que deveria. O leite havia coalhado. 

De qualquer forma, depois de mais de duas horas resfriando na geladeira, a bebida estava muito saborosa sem álcool. Não acrescentei dessa vez porque não tinha nenhuma bebida em casa. O sabor era como de ambrosia.

Segunda tentativa


A segunda tentativa foi na casa dos meus sogros. Desta vez, não se formaram bolotas e a consistência ficou igual à da receita do Youtube.

Nesta segunda tentativa, usei todos os ingredientes como os da receita, inclusive o açúcar branco e o leite integral. Segui os mesmos passos. A única coisa diferente foi que esqueci de fazer o segundo aquecimento em fogo baixo. Por causa disso, quando o eggnog se aproximou de ficar pronto, senti um cheiro de leite queimado. Felizmente, foi só um pouco que grudou no fundo da panela e não afetou o sabor da bebida.

Acrescentei a essência de baunilha depois de coar, mas isso não fez diferença. Na hora de beber, provei sem álcool e, em seguida, coloquei um pouco de whisky Johnnie Walker Red Label. O sabor era novamente de uma sobremesa bem doce, mas não enjoativa, provavelmente por conta das especiarias. Com a bebida, ficou muito bom.

É uma bomba calórica, com certeza, e provavelmente melhor para se beber no inverno do que no verão, que é a estação do Natal no Hemisfério Sul. De qualquer forma, um copo de eggnog foi uma experiência diferente, e vale a pena provar!


ENGLISH VERSION


The eggnog is a traditional drink in North-America at Christmas. Made with eggs, sugar,  milk, milk cream and spices, it tastes like a dessert, and liquor is usually added to the mix when it is served to adults. This week I tried to follow an eggnog recipe that I found on the internet, and I share here the outcome of this experiment.

It's worth pointing out that such drink is not part of the Brazilian customs. Therefore, not only was this the first time I made the eggnog, it was also the first time I tried the beverage.

The recipe I followed was the one available here. It takes only egg yolks, not the whites (which my wife fried separately as a savory snack).

- 6 egg yolks
- 100g of sugar
- 480ml of milk
- 240ml of "heavy cream" ("fresh milk cream")
- 1/4 teaspoon of powdered cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon of ground clove
- 1/4 teaspoon of grated nutmeg
- a pinch of salt
- 1/4 teaspoon of vanilla essence
- 60ml of a liquor (cognac, whisky, bourbon or rum)

First attempt


The most uncommon ingredient here in Brazil is probably the "heavy cream", which I found here as "fresh milk cream" - this is the type of milk cream here in Brazil that has 35% of butterfat, something very close to the recipe's "heavy cream", in contrast to the 20% of the more usual milk cream here in the country, which is sold in small cartons. The "fresh milk cream" is sold in bottles on refrigerated supermarket shelves.

In my first try, at home, two of the ingredients I used were different from the ones in the original recipe: I used brown sugar instead of fine white sugar; and I used skimmed milk instead of whole milk.

I started off by whisking the six yolks with a little over 100 grams of brown sugar in a bowl. In a saucepan, I put the milk, the "fresh milk cream', three cloves (instead of using ground clove), a bit of powdered cinnamon that I added "by eye", without measuring it exactly, and I grated a bit of nutmeg that I also added "by eye". And the pinch of salt.

I heated up the saucepan, stirring constantly. When the liquid came to a simmer, I turned off the burner and poured its content into the yolk-sugar mixture in the bowl, whisking non-stop. After that, I poured the new mixture back into the saucepan and heated it up again. I would stir it a little and then stop to check if it had already started simmering, stir it a little more, stop again to check, and so on. When the liquid finally came to a simmer,  I turned off the fire.

I then added the vanilla essence (also without measuring it out; I just put a bit in a tablespoon and added it). I stirred eggnog a little more and strained it with my wife's help. It was then that I realized there were lumps in the mix, and that the liquid was less thick than it was supposed to be. The milk had curdled.

Nonetheless, after having been chilled in the refrigerator for a little over two hours, the drink was super tasty without alcohol. I didn't add any beverage that time because I didn't have any spirits at home. The taste was like the one of ambrosia.


Second attempt


The second attempt took place at my parents-in-law's house. This time, no lumps were formed and the consistency turned out exactly like the Youtube recipe.

In this second try, I used all the ingredients as they were mentioned in the recipe, including the white sugar and the whole milk. I followed the same steps. The only different thing was that I forgot to heat up the liquid over low heat after mixing it with the sugar and yolks; I heated it up over high heat instead, and so, when the eggnog neared completion, I smelled burned milk. Fortunately, it was only a bit that sticked to the bottom of the saucepan and didn't affect the drink's flavor.

I added the vanilla essence after, rather than before, straining, but this didn't make any difference. I first tried the eggnog without alcohol and, then, I poured in a little Johnnie Walker Red Label whisky. The flavor once again turned out like one of a very sweet, though not cloying, dessert - probably because of the spices. With the added liquor, it turned out really flavorful.

It is a calory bomb, for sure, and probably best to drink in winter than in summer, which is the season when Christmas takes place in the Southern Hemisphere. Be that as it may, a glass of eggnog was a new experience for me, a one worth trying!
















domingo, 6 de junho de 2021

Pinhão: the Brazilian pine nut

Brazilian pine nuts: the pinhões

Pinhão, the seed from the Brazilian Pine, is a cherished food in the country, especially in the south, where it abounds in the mountains and plateaus. It is a synonym for beauty, and also a synonym for home for many of us, who automatically feel welcomed in our homeland when we see its trees, these towering dark green chalices, standing out in the landscape, whether it be green highland pastures or hilly Atlantic Forest country.

(Confira a transcrição do vídeo desta postagem em português e inglês ao fim do texto / check out this post's video transcription in English and Portuguese at the end of the text).

Araucárias in a rural property in São Jorge da Mulada, Caxias do Sul

Even way before the 15th century, when European explorers set foot in what today we call Brazil, the people who inhabited this land already appreciated the Brazilian pine nuts. Research carried out a few years ago by Brazilian and British scientists concluded that indigenous peoples who inhabited the southern Brazilian highlands not only used to consume pinhão, but were also responsible for an expansion of the pine trees - also known as araucárias - that took place more than a thousand years ago in this region.

Today, pinhão is normally eaten alone as a snack, but it can also be mixed with other ingredients in the preparation of dishes like paçoca de pinhão, where it is ground after cooked, mixed with beef or pork mince and seasoned with herbs or spices. Cooked pinhão can also be chopped up and fill pastéis, also preferably with ground meat.

A shelled pinhão after cooked

There are three main ways to prepare Brazilian pine nuts. Check out the video that follows to learn more about this unique tradition, including the spellbinding sapêco do pinhão: the scorching of the pine nut.

Video doesn't show up? Watch here.

Pinhão preparation: Pedro Paulo Mapelli and Isabel Spido Mapelli
Images and editing: Diego Mandarino
Music: https://www.bensound.com

More than a nutritious seed, the pinhão means tradition and coziness. Being a hallmark of the Southern Cone* autumn, when temperatures often drop to nose-chilling levels, it can be found in countless dwellings in the region, on top of lit wood-burning stoves surrounded by curled up family members who cannot wait for the roasting pinhões to be ready.

Pinhões being roasted on top of a wood-burning stove

The long-established sapêco (scorching) of the pinhão

*Southern Cone: South American region encompassing the four southernmost Brazilian states (São Paulo, Paraná, Santa Catarina and Rio Grande do Sul) plus Paraguay, Uruguay, Argentina and Chile - no araucárias like the Brazilian ones are to be found in the latter though; Chile is home to araucanas, which are also found in Argentina. 


Transcrição do vídeo / video transcription


DIEGO: Very, very hot.

DIEGO: Muito, muito quente.


DIEGO: Hello there, folks! Behold, the Brazilian Pinhão! Or pine nut. It comes from the Brazilian Pine Tree, which is native to southern Brazil and certain high parts of southeastern Brazil.

DIEGO: Oi, pessoal! Contemplem: o Pinhão brasileiro! Ou "pine nut". Ele vem do Pinheiro Brasileiro, que é nativo da região Sul do Brasil e algumas partes altas da região Sudeste do Brasil.


CAPTION: Pinhões are savory and must be cooked.

LEGENDA: Pinhões são salgados ("não-doces") e devem ser cozidos.


DIEGO: So, there is this flat part here at one end, and then it's plumpy on this part. And at the other end, you can see that it's tapered. And we're interested in what is inside this brown case. 

DIEGO: Então, há essa parte chata aqui em uma das extremidades, e aí ele é gordinho nesta parte. E, na outra extremidade, você pode ver que ele é afinado. E a gente está interessado no que está dentro desta casca marrom. 


CAPTION: Pinhão is rich in calories, fiber and potassium.

LEGENDA: O pinhão é rico em calorias, fibras e potássio.


DIEGO: I can further open the case with my teeth. So I just have to bite the pine nut at that plumpy end, and make the pine nut inside slide out of the casing.

DIEGO: Eu posso também abrir a casca com os dentes. Aí eu só tenho que morder o pinhão naquela extremidade gordinha, e fazer o pinhão que está dentro deslizar para fora do envoltório.


DIEGO: Now, let's take a look at the Brazilian pine tree, where these guys come from. So you can come with me over here...

DIEGO: Agora, vamos dar uma olhada no pinheiro-brasileiro, de onde esses caras vêm. Então pode vir comigo por aqui...


CAPTION: These pine trees are also known as "araucárias".

LEGENDA: Esses pinheiros também são conhecidos como "araucárias".


DIEGO: ...and this is our east-facing window. This is a typical autumn Saturday morning in Brazil, sunny... in southern Brazil, I mean. Sunny... and those are the Brazilian pine trees, very common here...

DIEGO: ...e esta é a nossa janela voltada para o leste. Essa é uma típica manhã de sábado de outono no Brasil, ensolarada... no sul do Brasil, eu digo. Ensolarada... e aqueles são os pinheiros-brasileiros, muito comuns aqui...


DIEGO: And this is our north-facing window...

DIEGO: E esta é a nossa janela voltada para o norte...


CAPTION: They are also native to parts of Argentina, Paraguay and Uruguay.

LEGENDA: Eles também são nativos de partes da Argentina, Paraguai e Uruguai.


DIEGO: ...there is downtown Caxias do Sul, over there, as you can see... you can spot more Brazilian pine trees over there, by the church.

DIEGO: ...lá está o centro de Caxias do Sul, lá adiante, como você pode ver... você pode avistar mais pinheiros-brasileiros ali adiante, junto à igreja.


CAPTION: Araucárias are also called candelabra due to their shape.

LEGENDA: Araucárias também são chamadas "candelabros" devido à sua forma.


CAPTION: Paraná pine is still another name.

LEGENDA: Pinheiro do Paraná ou pinheiro-do-paraná é ainda um outro nome.


DIEGO: So, you can prepare the pinhões - the Brazilian pine nuts - in a number of ways, and you can find them in a number of dishes.

DIEGO: Então, você pode preparar os pinhões - os "pine nuts" brasileiros - de uma série de formas, e você pode encontrá-los em uma série de pratos.


CAPTION: Dishes with pinhão include PAÇOCA, where it is ground and mixed with minced meat (pork or beef) and spices.

LEGENDA: Pratos com pinhão incluem a PAÇOCA, onde ele é moído e misturado com carne moída (porco ou gado) e temperos.


DIEGO: So, the main ways to prepare pinhões are: you can cook them under pressure; you can roast them on a hot plate (for example, a griddle - but, traditionally, this is done here in the south of Brazil by placing the pinhões on top of wood-burning stoves, so you roast them); and you can also scorch them, so you roast them directly on fire, and you litteraly let them scorch. And this is in fact the most traditional way to prepare pinhões here in the south. So people light the sprigs of the very Brazilian pine tree on fire, and with that fire they scorch the pine nuts.

DIEGO: Bom, as formas principais de se fazer pinhão são: você pode cozinhá-los na pressão; você pode tostá-los em uma chapa quente (por exemplo, um grelhador de chapa - mas, tradicionalmente, isso é feito aqui no sul do Brasil colocando os pinhões em cima de fogões a lenha, e aí você tosta eles); e você pode também chamuscá-los ou sapecá-los, então você tosta eles diretamente no fogo, e você literalmente deixa eles chamuscarem ou sapecarem. E esse é na verdade o jeito mais tradicional de fazer pinhões aqui na região Sul. Então as pessoas colocam fogo nos ramos, ou grinfas, do próprio pinheiro-brasileiro e com esse fogo elas sapecam os pinhões.


CAPTION: Araucárias are nowadays critically endangered, mainly due to logging and farming expansion in the past century.

LEGENDA: Araucárias estão hoje em dia em perigo crítico de extinção, principalmente devido à derrubada para madeira e à expansão da agricultura no século passado.


CAPTION: Pinhões can be collected from the ground around the pines.

LEGENDA: Os pinhões podem ser catados do chão em volta dos pinheiros.


DIEGO: Now, look at the size of that tree, the Brazilian pine tree... this is tens of meters tall. And by its base, on the ground around it, you can find /(...)/ empty shells, because there are some animals that also feed on these Brazilian pine nuts; as you can see, there are tons of pine tree sprigs on the ground that we're gonna be using to make the fire.

DIEGO: Olha só o tamanho dessa árvore, o pinheiro-brasileiro... isso são dezenas de metros de altura. E pela base dele, no chão em volta dele, você encontra /(...)/ cascas vazias, porque há alguns animais que também se alimentam desses pinhões brasileiros; como você pode ver, tem um monte de grinfas no chão, que a gente vai usar para fazer o fogo.


CAPTION: We first set a layer of sprigs and spread some pine nuts on top. 

LEGENDA: A gente primeiro coloca uma camada de grinfa e espalha alguns pinhões por cima.


CAPTION: We then add some more sprigs, pine nuts, and keep repeating the process...

LEGENDA: A gente então coloca mais algumas grinfas, pinhões, e segue repetindo o processo...


CAPTION: The araucária sprig is called "grinfa" or "grimpa" here in the south.

LEGENDA: O ramo de araucária é chamado "grinfa" ou "grimpa" aqui na região Sul.


CAPTION: A fire is lit at the base of the heap.

LEGENDA: O fogo é aceso na base do monte.


CAPTION: A fairly tall heap produces a tall flame...

LEGENDA: Um monte razoavelmente alto produz uma chama alta...


CAPTION: ...which is ideal for roasting the pinhões.

LEGENDA: ...que é ideal para assar os pinhões.


ISABEL: "Can you hear the pinhões pop?"

ISABEL: Tá ouvindo o barulhinho dos pinhões,  lá ó?


DIEGO: Mhm... They're starting to pop.

DIEGO: Mhm... Eles tão começando a estourar.


CAPTION: This preparation method is called "sapêco" (scorching).

LEGENDA: Esse método de preparo é chamado "sapêco" (chamusco).


ISABEL: "You can take it and eat it if you want."

ISABEL: Ó, pode pegar ele pra comer, se tu quiser.


CAPTION: This is my first time eating pinhão prepared in this way...

LEGENDA: Esse é a primeira vez que eu estou comendo pinhão feito desse jeito...


DIEGO: Very, very hot.

DIEGO: Muito, muito quente.


DIEGO: Mmm... hmmmm! Hm-hmmmmmm!!! Very good! It's crunchy! ("It is crunchy!").

DIEGO: Mmm... hmmmm! Hm-hmmmmmm!!! Muito bom! Tá crocante! (Ele tá crocante!).


ISABEL: "It is different."

ISABEL: Ele é diferente.


DIEGO: Mhm. Tastes better than the one we cook under pressure. Definitely. That's why this is the traditional way to prepare it! Now I know.

DIEGO: Mhm. É melhor que o que a gente faz na pressão. Sem dúvida. É por isso que esse é o jeito tradicional de fazer ele! Agora eu sei.


DIEGO: "It comes out really tastsy."

DIEGO: Ele fica bem gostoso.


ISABEL: "It comes out different!"

ISABEL: Ele fica diferente!


DIEGO: So tasty, crunchy...

DIEGO: Tão gostoso, crocante...


CAPTION: The pine nut season is in fall, when temperatures start to drop from an average of 20ºC in late summer to as low as around 5°C, or even lower.

LEGENDA: A temporada do pinhão é no outono, quando as temperaturas começam a cair de uma média de 20ºC no fim do verão para mínimas de até 5ºC, ou até menos.


CAPTION: Pinhão is thus often associated with coziness in chilly days...

LEGENDA: O pinhão é, portanto, frequentemente associado a aconchego em dias frios...


CAPTION: ...specially when it is prepared on a wood burning stove...

LEGENDA: ...especialmente quando ele é preparado na chapa de um fogão a lenha...


CAPTION: ...which warms up the house.

LEGENDA: ...que aquece a casa.


CAPTION: Finally, you can alternatively cook them in water...

LEGENDA: Por fim, você também pode cozinhá-los na água...


DIEGO: Now I'm gonna put the pine nuts, the pinhões, in the pressure cooker...

DIEGO: Agora eu vou colocar os "pine nuts", os pinhões, na panela de pressão...


CAPTION: I add enough water so that they cook under pressure for at least 40 minutes.

LEGENDA: Eu adiciono água suficiente para que eles cozinhem na pressão por pelo menos 40 minutos.


CAPTION: When the shell cracks, the pinhão is ready to be eaten.

LEGENDA: Quando a casca se rompe, o pinhão está pronto.


CAPTION: When cooked in water, it remains soft and somewhat flexible.

LEGENDA: Quando cozido na água, ele fica macio e um pouco flexível.


CAPTION: Pinhão can also be eaten as a pastel filling.

LEGENDA: O pinhão também pode ser comido como um recheio de pastel.


CAPTION: It tastes better when combined with ground meat!

LEGENDA: Ele fica melhor quando combinado com carne moída!


MESSAGE: Thanks for watching!

MENSAGEM: Obrigado por assistir!



SOURCES

Revista Piauí Online: O POVO QUE FEZ DO PINHÃO UMA FLORESTA. Available at https://piaui.folha.uol.com.br/o-povo-que-fez-do-pinhao-uma-floresta/

The Conversation. Climate breakdown is pushing Brazil’s iconic Araucaria tree to extinction – new research - Oliver Wilson. Available at https://theconversation.com/climate-breakdown-is-pushing-brazils-iconic-araucaria-tree-to-extinction-new-research-123068

Araucaria Angustifolia. Wikipedia English. Available at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Araucaria_angustifolia

Araucária. Wikipédia em português. Available at https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arauc%C3%A1ria

Flora de Uruguay. Wikiwand. Available at https://www.wikiwand.com/es/Flora_de_Uruguay

Southern Cone. Wikipedia English. Available at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Southern_Cone

Global Trees Campaign. Paraná Pine. Available at https://globaltrees.org/threatened-trees/trees/parana-pine/



terça-feira, 4 de maio de 2021

Brazilian Pastel - golden brown and crunchy



The pastel is a typical turnover pastry in Brazil, traditionally savory, and usually eaten as a snack. This popular dish can be found anywhere in the country, from convenience stores to bakeries, cafes and even specialized restaurants.

(Pictures: Diego Mandarino) 

Check out the video below to learn more about the Brazilian pastel. At the end of the text you will find my recipe for the ground beef I fill baked pastéis with.

                                                    Video doesn't show up? Watch here.
Pastel preparation: Isabel Spido Mapelli and Diego Mandarino
Images and editing: Diego Mandarino
Music: https://www.bensound.com

Many people in the country say that the perfect accompaniment for pastel is the sugarcane juice (caldo de cana), a beverage suited specially for hot weather - the sweet juice from a freshly pressed cane in a glass with ice cubes is a soothing balm on the oppresive, sultry days of summer. But its combination with pastel is generally regarded as a fine snack all year round throughout Brazil. 

To me, pastel is an awesome dish, no matter where, no matter what season or time of the day it is. On the cold, wintry days here in the south of the country, it is particularly great with soup for lunch or dinner, and also between meals with a cup of coffee, tea or even hot chocolate. 


Pastel to take away or dine in


I can think of at least two shops here in my neighborhood in Caxias do Sul that sell pastel fried on the spot. You will often find pastéis in display counters at bakeries, snack bars and cafes; they are usually very good, though not as good as if they had been fried at the moment. 

However, be mindful that, in some cases, the fried pastel might have been sitting in these counters for hours, so its pastry has probably become a little rubbery. It is a good idea to ask the attendant how long ago the pastel was fried. Otherwise, the only way to know its quality is by having one; most places care for their reputation, whether they are big or small, fancy or humble. But there are always those that do not offer a good standard of food.


Half-moon-shaped or rectangular


In general, pastéis that are sold at food shops, markets and restaurants are of a larger size than the usual homemade pastel, and sometimes of a rectangular shape rather than a semicircle. The round piece of dough for the latter is usually a little over 10 centimeters in diameter, while the former is typically at least 15 centimeters in length after folded. Some places, commonly pubs and bars, serve tiny pastéis (pasteizinhos) in portions. At birthday parties, people in Brazil use to serve nibble-sized pasteizinhos of no more than 3 cm, which are placed in a tray that customarily rests on a table for the guests to help themselves.



Flavors


Ground beef and heart of palm with cheese fillings
At pastelarias - stores specialized in serving pastéis - you can find a wide variety of fillings. Here are the most traditional ones that I can recall:
- Ground beef (commonly with pieces of boiled eggs and sometimes olives)
- Cheese
- Shredded chicken (sometimes with corn)
- Heart of palm (often with cheese)
- Shrimps
- Codfish
- Corn (often with cheese)
- Guava paste with cheese (a sweet combination popularly known as "Romeo and Juliet")



Ground beef filling for baked pastéis

This is my recipe for the ground beef filling. You will need:

- BEEF: Approximately 500g of minced beef
- ONION: One small or medium-sized onion
- GARLIC: 4 or 5 cloves of garlic
- BUTTER: A soup spoon of butter
- SALT
- TOMATOES: 3 or 4 tomatoes
- EGG: 1 or 2 eggs
- PAPRIKA: Sweet paprika
- BASIL: A handful of dried basil leaves

(Note: these amounts are enough to make two dozens of pastéis, using approximately 500g of dough)

Chop up the onion, the garlic and the tomatoes. In a wok or saucepan, put the butter and add a few pinches of salt. Start sautéing the onion and add the garlic a little later so that it doesn't overcook. You then put in the beef and try to sear most of it before adding the tomato pieces. After you put in the tomato, boil the egg or eggs for 3 minutes in a separate pot, remove their shells and add them to the mix, cutting them into pieces with a knife. 
While letting the water released by the ingredients reduce, sprinkle the sweet paprika over the surface of the beef and add a handful of dried basil leaves. Taste the mix and adjust the salt as needed. Stir if necessary and, when there is only little water left, turn off the burner. It is important that the mixture remains moisty, as it will be afterwards heated in the oven, inside the pastel dough.
(Check out how I bake the pastéis in the video above).

Baked pastéis that have just come out of the oven

Homemade pastéis to be fried in a skillet


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domingo, 14 de fevereiro de 2021

Cassava (aipim): a South American root

A South American root with multiple names: meet the aipim (aka yuca, cassava, manioc, mandioca in a part of Brazil, macaxeira in another part of Brazil, agbeli in a part of Africa). 


In Southern Brazil, we call it aipim. It is pronounced as something like "ipeen" with the 'n' said almost as in 'ing' words in English, the 'i' as in 'kite', the 'ee' as in 'sleep', and the stress falling on the second syllable. Aipim ≈ "ipeen". 

Whatever the name, this all-purpose tuber, which has a brown skin and is white inside, can be compared to the potato in usefulness in the kitchen. Both are extensively used in Brazil. 

To my taste, foods in general made from cassava, whether savory or sweet, are better than their potato counterparts. The exceptions are few, like crispy roast potatoes. This is far from unanimous, however; to many people, potato dishes taste better. 

Unlike the potato, though, yuca must be thoroughly cooked before it is used in recipes in general. Check out the video below to see how this is done:

 Video doesn't show up? Watch here. 
Images: Suelen Mapelli
Presentation/Editing: Diego Mandarino


Here is a list of food items made out of manioc and some pictures below:

- Cooked aipim
- Fried aipim chunks
- Yuca chips
- Matchstick/shoestring yuca fries
- Mashed cassava
- Toasted cassava flour
- Fried cassava flour (farofa)
- Tapioca
- Manioc bread
- Manioc cake
- Aipim "cuca" (Brazilian crumb cake loaf)










Photos: Diego Mandarino


sábado, 23 de janeiro de 2021

Milk sweet: a spread that tastes like home

Doce de leite. Such a Latin American flavor. It is one of the things I missed from home on the occasions I traveled overseas and was away for some time. 

In Spanish-speaking countries, it is called dulce de leche, just like in Portuguese: 'sweet of milk', 'milk sweet', or something of the sort. Since there is apparently no specific term in English, I will keep using doce de leite. 

It is basically a thick, creamy brown spread. It is delicious on a slice of bread, especially if you mix it with milk cream spread (nata), which is also commonly found in small containers on refrigerated supermarket shelves all over the country.

It tastes perfect on a slice of bread

Doce de leite is a great filling, too. It is the heart of the unrivaled South American alfajor, a most traditional confection in Argentina and Uruguay. It is the soul of the Brazilian churros, a deep-fried, tube-like dough.

This very sweet brown cream also goes heavenly with cheese; in the Brazilian state of Minas Gerais, doce de leite served with Minas cheese is a classic. The sweet commonly found there is of a lighter brown color than the one typically made here in Southern Brazil and neighboring countries.

Speaking of Minas Gerais, another specialty of theirs that makes a perfect companion to milk sweet is pão de queijo, or cheese bread. Pão de queijo is an authentic Brazilian dainty on its own, by the way, popularly accompanied by a cup of coffee in city cafes, bus stations, roadside gas stations and diners, and airports throughout the country.

In the pictures below, the doce de leite, Minas cheese and cheese bread were all made in the state of Rio Grande do Sul:

Minas Cheese and Milk Sweet: what a couple!

Pão de queijo and doce de leite, another scrumptious duo.

Oh, how I miss those good old days when I was a child in the 90's and it was still possible to find doce de leite and nata in bulk in supermarkets' display counters to be sold by weight. You could ask for a certain quantity and the attendant behind the counter would start collecting spoons of the desired substance, gradually filling a plastic container that stood on a scale until the approximate requested amount was reached. It seems to me that these foods tasted better that way. They don't sell them like that anymore due to sanitary regulations. 

The recipe for this brown manjar is quite simple; the making of it, not so much. The sweet is obtained by slowly heating milk with sugar. One has to be careful not to let it burn, stirring and stirring. According to my mother-in-law's account, who had the experience of preparing it at home in the past, the process takes hours and the resulting volume of sweet is a great deal smaller than the initial volume of milk. 

In Brazil, you can usually find jars containing doce de leite in supermarkets. The best brands are usually from Uruguay. When my wife and I traveled there last year, a little more than a month before the pandemic, we were surprised by the variety of products made with, or flavored like, doce de leite, including ice creams, yogurts and carton drinks.

You can also find it in small plastic bags here in Brazil. This is popular with kids, who bite these bags open and slurp its scrummy content. My wife got one in a food basket she was gifted by a group of students last year, which reminded her of childhood.

Do you feel like biting this bag open?

In South America, I can assure you that doce de leite is a superior sweet and a flavor to try, and one to never forget.