New Year in Brazil

Fireworks going off at the start of 2021 in Novo Hamburgo - RS (photo: Diego Mandarino)

This post is about the way Brazilians celebrate the New Year from my perspective. It is a personal account rather than a deeply grounded academic study or even a meticulously woven journalistic report. The latter would have required a considerably larger amount of time and funding than just sitting down on a chair and writing from my personal experience - which is exactly what I am doing here;  the former - an academic research - would have required an immensely greater amount of time and even more funding in order to cover costs such as field trips and the work itself: reading, interviewing, photographing, recording videos, compiling everything, writing, editing, proof-reading, publishing and distributing.

As it is a personal account, it might differ from the customs of many other people in Brazil. My focus is on telling about what I perceive as being traditional in New Year's celebrations in general in my country. Feel free to add your input in the comments session, provided it is done in a civilized manner. 

Gathering

In Brazil, we call the transition between December 31st and January 1st, exactly at midnight, Virada ("flip", “turn”, “overturn”), or Virada do Ano ("year flip", “turn of the year”). In the same way, we refer to the whole event as Virada or Ano Novo, which consists of a gathering of family or friends (whether one stays with their family or spends the Virada with friends varies a lot) in the evening of New Year's Eve, extending to the fireworks displays at midnight or even further into the night, sometimes till the sun rises. 

Food

It is customary for Brazilians to eat pork for New Year's Eve dinner and often also for New Year's Day lunch. This is not a hard rule, though, as many people eat fish or something else instead. It is normal to sit at a table and eat New Year's Eve dinner when the family is brought together. At friends gatherings, people might have finger food instead of eating at a table. 

For those who do prepare pork as a dinner dish, it is usually roasted pork loin. The accompaniments vary, but they are similar to Christmas dinner's side dishes, like farofa (toasted cassava flour) and rice. 

People who eat pork usually say something like "The pig roots forward; the chicken scratches backward" (o porco fuça para frente; a galinha cisca para trás) when they explain why they eat pork for New Year as opposed to Chester chicken or turkey, which are common at Christmas. The saying means that, because it roots forward, the pig is a symbol of progress and forward-moving, instead of looking back and staying in the past as the chicken that "scratches backward" may suggest.

Another very important New Year food item in Brazil is lentils, which bring good luck according to popular belief.

As for Bolo Rei (King Cake), which is common in Portugal and some other parts of the world, including southern United States, it is not a Brazilian tradition. 

Drink

Sparkling wine, essentially, just like most of the world.

Brazilians open a bottle of sparkling wine, fill the glasses and wait for the countdown to the New Year. At midnight sharp, we shout Feliz Ano Novo! (Happy New Year), spectacular fireworks go off in major cities, we clink our glasses and drink, shake hands, hug each other sometimes, wishing a happy new year to each person. 

Clothing

The way one dresses to the New Year, or Virada, is usually a big deal in Brazil. Many Brazilians are superstitious about the colors of the clothes they are wearing when a new year starts; this cultural feature is so remarkable that even the many people who do not really care about this color stuff tend to conform to the rite so as to not raise too much attention from others - which would certainly happen if they, for example, wore black or another very dark color. 

The most common clothing color to usher in the new year is white, which represents peace. Many people wear a combination of white and some other color; for example, white shorts and a T-shirt or tank top in a different color (remember that it is summer in Brazil), or vice-versa. So, one might wear white shorts for peace and a yellow T-shirt for money. One might also wear red for love (if they want to find a partner, for example), green for hope or purple for health, just to name a few. Some people wear a combination of blue and white just because blue generally goes well with white.

Fireworks in Novo Hamburgo - RS at the start of 2021 (video: Diego Mandarino)

Firecrackers, a controversial topic

The fireworks that make a lot of noise are a contentious issue in Brazil, even at the Virada. Many people just love setting off these loud tiny rockets, much to the unease of animals like dogs, which are sensitive to such roar/rumble, as you probably know. This triggers a sort of "war" between noise enthusiasts and animals rights advocates. People argue a lot about that on social media. 

Personally, I don't get what the fun is about some crackers popping in the sky. What I love seeing is the actual fireworks. That said, I don't see a problem with a bunch of noisy crackers for five or ten minutes to welcome the New Year. In fact, I would probably feel a little lost and empty without a lot of noise in the first few minutes. The problem is that there are people who start setting off crackers at random every now and then on Christmas Eve and keep doing that on the days leading up to the Virada. Sometimes, it is a 30-second firecracker outburst without any apparent reason, sometimes it is just one single rowdy bass-drum-beat-like rocket explosion out of the blue during the day, just to scare the s*** out of the unaware folk who is just trying to relax in their hammock. I can't figure out what the fun about that is.

Some bills regarding firecrackers have been passed in different states and municipalities in the last few years. In the state of Rio Grande do Sul, a law banning firecrackers 🧨 that exceed 100 decibels at a distance of 100 meters came into effect at the end of 2020.

Jumping seven waves

Yes, that is a tradition for people who spend the Virada at the beach. It is a popular superstition that jumping over seven waves right at the start of a new year brings you luck for that year.

Iemanjá, the lady of the seas 

Some people make offerings on the beach to the lady of the ocean, "mother Iemanjá" (or "Yemoja"), - a deity in some African and African-originated religions (like the Candomblé) - at the Virada, asking for blessings. The most common offering is flowers, which are thrown into the sea, but I was just looking up on the internet and I found out that the offerings might sometimes be objects, including jewelry, mirrors and perfumes.

 

   

Christmas in Brazil

A Nativity Scene in the Novo Hamburgo Cathedral, Rio Grande do Sul (Photo: Diego Mandarino)

How is Christmas celebrated in your country? More specifically, how does your family celebrate it?

These are two interesting questions because, even though each country seems to have its own distinctive customs, traditions also vary accross different families of the same nationality. I'm going to talk about some Brazilian practices at Christmas, including food, and also how my familiy usually celebrates the holiday.

The Christmas Tree at my godparents' house (Photo: Cleia Catarina Wagner)

Decoration

As in most countries where this Christian holiday is observed, decorated Christmas trees are put up some time before December 25th, the Christmas Day. It consists of an often fake pine tree. Brazil, besides being partly equatorial, has almost all of its territory in the Southern Hemisphere, where it is summer on Christmas. So, actual pine trees either do not exist or easily die after a short time period if they are cut off and planted in a vase. That being said, a few people in the South, where the climate is temperate, have the habit of cutting off a bough of a real pine tree and placing it in their living room to be adorned from top to bottom.  

A Christmas Garland (Photo: Diego Mandarino)

There is not an exact date when Brazilians in general set up their season decoration; on the streets, some stores may display colorful tinsels and Christmas lights as early as late October! Which is obviously a suggestive way of reminding customers that they should get their end-of-the-year shopping done. In contrast, some families do not get to adorn their homes before December, without observing a specific date. This happens due to the fact that many people are either not aware of, or concerned with, the Christian tradition according to which the preparation for the birth of Jesus starts on the fourth Sunday before December 25th - it's the start of the Advent period - and that's when decorations are supposed to be put up. On the other hand, it is a widespread custom to take down the ornaments on January 6th, the date when Christians recall the narrative in the Gospel of Matthew about the arrival of three wise men from the east who visited newborn Jesus.

The ornaments on the Christmas Tree are varied, the most popular of them being the traditional colored balls, the baubles. Small angels, bells, Santas and other characters and symbols are also common. On top of the tree, a star resembling the Star of Bethlehem is usually placed, though sometimes there is no tree-topper at all. Differently from North-America, candy canes and stockings are not part of the Brazilian tradition.

Another very common piece of decoration in Brazil is the Nativity Scene (presépio) It may consist of a singular sculped object or a set of figurines put together to show baby Jesus in a manger, with Mary and Joseph standing on each side of it. Nativity Scenes often portray the Holy Family in a stable or grotto, surrounded by farm animals, some shepherds that have dropped by from the surroundings and, a little further away, the three wise men on their journey to the manger.

A Nativity Scene featuring the Holy Family in a stable (Photo: Diego Mandarino)

Another example of a Manger Scene (Photo: Cleia Catarina Wagner) / (and the drawing of a Christmas tree under the tree is from my 4 year-old goddaughter, Victoria)

 The Nativity Scene in the Novo Hamburgo Cathedral during the Christmas Mass (Video: Diego Mandarino)

Christmas garlands on doors are also ubiquitous at this time of the year in Brazil. What may not be so common is the tradition of the Advent Wreath. In my family, my parents usually place it on a coffee table. The wreath has four candles, each of a different color: the green one, representing hope, is lit on the fourth Sunday before Christmas; both the green and the red candle, symbolizing love, are lit on the following Sunday; on the second Sunday before the 25th, the green, red an pink candles (pink symbolizes joy) are lit; finally, on the Sunday before Christmas and on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, all four candles are lit, including the white one (peace).

An Advent Wreath (Photo: Diego Mandarino)

Gift Exchange

The exchange of gifts usually takes place in the evening of December 24th, when families gather to have dinner. In my family, each person or couple usually buys one present for each member of the family. In the companies where I have worked, the staff does a Secret Santa some time in December before Christmas Day. 

Santa Claus

Santa Claus (Papai Noel) has become a very popular character in Brazil as of the 20th Century. In some families and places like villages or neighborhoods, someone dresses up as Santa and delivers gifts and candy to the children. In virtually all shopping malls and some town squares, Santa Claus shows up to talk to the children and listen to their requests. 

Food

In Brazil, the main meal associated with the holiday is Christmas Eve's dinner. There is a distinctive dish that has become very popular in the country over the years: the roasted Chester, which is a particular type of very big chicken grown especially for the date. Its meat is tenderer than a turkey's. The latter is also common in Brazil. 

A “Chester” chicken with farofa on the side (Photo: Diego Mandarino)

The accompaniments are usually farofa (fried cassava flour) or rice and some type of salad. Raisins, contrary to what is normal in Brazilian cuisine in the rest of the year, are often added to these side dishes by whoever prepares the dinner, much to the disgust of many of the guests and children - so much so that the presence of raisins at the Christmas dinner has become the object of some jokes and internet memes. I actually like the raisins, and they are usually present in my family's recipes.

My family’s Christmas dinner this year: a salad with pineapple, carrots, raisins, cabbage and lettuce; “Chester” chicken with farofa and rice (Photo: Diego Mandarino)

Some families prepare a sweet side dish to accompany the chester or turkey, which is called fios de ovos (egg threads). Another common side dish is rabanadas, which consist of sweet fried slices of bread; this tradition comes from Portugal.

Outside the Christmas dinner per se, the panettone is a Christmas staple in Brazil. It is also a common gift. The panettone, of Italian origin, is a loaf of bread that is sweet and takes dried fruit; an even more popular version of it in Brazil takes chocolate instead of dried fruit (the latter is not the cup of tea of many Brazilians). In my family, we usually have both and I like them both, but I like the "chocottone" better.

A Panettone with dried fruit sold in Brazil (Photo: Diego Mandarino)

Eggnog ("gemada de Natal")

(ENGLISH VERSION BELOW) 

O eggnog é uma bebida tradicional na América do Norte na época de Natal. Feita com ovos, açúcar, leite, creme de leite e especiarias, tem sabor de sobremesa, e a mistura normalmente recebe uma bebida alcoólica como ingrediente adicional para ser servida aos adultos. Eu tentei seguir, nesta semana, uma receita de eggnog que encontrei na internet e compartilho aqui o resultado dessa experiência.

Vale ressaltar que essa bebida não faz parte dos costumes brasileiros. Portanto, essa não só foi a primeira vez que eu preparei o eggnog, mas foi também a primeira vez que eu provei a bebida. 

A receita que segui foi a disponível neste link. Ela usa apenas gemas de ovos, não as claras (que minha esposa fritou em separado como um lanche salgado).

- 6 gemas de ovo

- 100g de açúcar

- 480mL de leite

- 240mL de "creme pesado" (creme de leite fresco)

- 1/4 de colher de chá de canela em pó

- 1/4 de colher de chá de cravo em pó

- 1/4 de colher de chá de noz moscada ralada

- uma pitada de sal

- 1/4 de colher de chá de essência de baunilha.

- 60ml de uma bebida alcoólica (conhaque, uísque ou rum)

Primeira tentativa

O ingrediente mais incomum aqui no Brasil é provavelmente o "creme pesado", que encontrei aqui como "creme de leite fresco" - é este o tipo de creme de leite aqui no Brasil que tem 35% de gordura, algo muito próximo do "creme pesado" da receita, contra cerca de 20% do creme de caixinha, o mais comum por aqui. O "creme de leite fresco" é vendido em garrafas em prateleiras refrigeradas nos supermercados. 

Na minha primeira tentativa, em casa, dois dos ingredientes que usei eram diferentes dos da receita original: usei açúcar mascavo em vez de açúcar branco refinado; e usei leite desnatado em vez de leite integral.

Comecei batendo as seis gemas com pouco mais de 100 gramas de açúcar mascavo em uma tigela. Em uma panela com cabo, coloquei o leite, o "creme de leite fresco", três cravos (em vez de usar cravo em pó), um pouco de canela em pó que coloquei "no olho", sem medir, e ralei um pouco de noz moscada que também coloquei "no olho". E, ainda, a pitada de sal.

Aqueci a panela mexendo constantemente. Quando algumas bolhas apareceram, eu desliguei o fogo e despejei o conteúdo da panela na mistura de ovo com açúcar, batendo sem parar. Depois, despejei o conteúdo da tigela de volta na panela com cabo e de novo aqueci. Mexi um pouco enquanto a mistura aquecia, mas parava às vezes para ver se já haviam começado a subir algumas bolhas. Quando elas começaram a aparecer, desliguei o fogo.

Adicionei, então, a essência de baunilha (também não medi, apenas coloquei um pouco numa colher de sopa e adicionei). Mexi um pouco mais e coei com a ajuda da  minha esposa. Foi aí que percebi que havia bolotas um pouco mais grossas na mistura, e o líquido estava menos grosso do que deveria. O leite havia coalhado. 

De qualquer forma, depois de mais de duas horas resfriando na geladeira, a bebida estava muito saborosa sem álcool. Não acrescentei dessa vez porque não tinha nenhuma bebida em casa. O sabor era como de ambrosia.

Segunda tentativa

A segunda tentativa foi na casa dos meus sogros. Desta vez, não se formaram bolotas e a consistência ficou igual à da receita do Youtube.

Nesta segunda tentativa, usei todos os ingredientes como os da receita, inclusive o açúcar branco e o leite integral. Segui os mesmos passos. A única coisa diferente foi que esqueci de fazer o segundo aquecimento em fogo baixo. Por causa disso, quando o eggnog se aproximou de ficar pronto, senti um cheiro de leite queimado. Felizmente, foi só um pouco que grudou no fundo da panela e não afetou o sabor da bebida.

Acrescentei a essência de baunilha depois de coar, mas isso não fez diferença. Na hora de beber, provei sem álcool e, em seguida, coloquei um pouco de whisky Johnnie Walker Red Label. O sabor era novamente de uma sobremesa bem doce, mas não enjoativa, provavelmente por conta das especiarias. Com a bebida, ficou muito bom.

É uma bomba calórica, com certeza, e provavelmente melhor para se beber no inverno do que no verão, que é a estação do Natal no Hemisfério Sul. De qualquer forma, um copo de eggnog foi uma experiência diferente, e vale a pena provar!

ENGLISH VERSION

The eggnog is a traditional drink in North-America at Christmas. Made with eggs, sugar,  milk, milk cream and spices, it tastes like a dessert, and liquor is usually added to the mix when it is served to adults. This week I tried to follow an eggnog recipe that I found on the internet, and I share here the outcome of this experiment.

It's worth pointing out that such drink is not part of the Brazilian customs. Therefore, not only was this the first time I made the eggnog, it was also the first time I tried the beverage.

The recipe I followed was the one available here. It takes only egg yolks, not the whites (which my wife fried separately as a savory snack).

- 6 egg yolks

- 100g of sugar

- 480ml of milk

- 240ml of "heavy cream" ("fresh milk cream")

- 1/4 teaspoon of powdered cinnamon

- 1/4 teaspoon of ground clove

- 1/4 teaspoon of grated nutmeg

- a pinch of salt

- 1/4 teaspoon of vanilla essence

- 60ml of a liquor (cognac, whisky, bourbon or rum)

First attempt

The most uncommon ingredient here in Brazil is probably the "heavy cream", which I found here as "fresh milk cream" - this is the type of milk cream here in Brazil that has 35% of butterfat, something very close to the recipe's "heavy cream", in contrast to the 20% of the more usual milk cream here in the country, which is sold in small cartons. The "fresh milk cream" is sold in bottles on refrigerated supermarket shelves.

In my first try, at home, two of the ingredients I used were different from the ones in the original recipe: I used brown sugar instead of fine white sugar; and I used skimmed milk instead of whole milk.

I started off by whisking the six yolks with a little over 100 grams of brown sugar in a bowl. In a saucepan, I put the milk, the "fresh milk cream', three cloves (instead of using ground clove), a bit of powdered cinnamon that I added "by eye", without measuring it exactly, and I grated a bit of nutmeg that I also added "by eye". And the pinch of salt.

I heated up the saucepan, stirring constantly. When the liquid came to a simmer, I turned off the burner and poured its content into the yolk-sugar mixture in the bowl, whisking non-stop. After that, I poured the new mixture back into the saucepan and heated it up again. I would stir it a little and then stop to check if it had already started simmering, stir it a little more, stop again to check, and so on. When the liquid finally came to a simmer,  I turned off the fire.

I then added the vanilla essence (also without measuring it out; I just put a bit in a tablespoon and added it). I stirred eggnog a little more and strained it with my wife's help. It was then that I realized there were lumps in the mix, and that the liquid was less thick than it was supposed to be. The milk had curdled.

Nonetheless, after having been chilled in the refrigerator for a little over two hours, the drink was super tasty without alcohol. I didn't add any beverage that time because I didn't have any spirits at home. The taste was like the one of ambrosia.

Second attempt

The second attempt took place at my parents-in-law's house. This time, no lumps were formed and the consistency turned out exactly like the Youtube recipe.

In this second try, I used all the ingredients as they were mentioned in the recipe, including the white sugar and the whole milk. I followed the same steps. The only different thing was that I forgot to heat up the liquid over low heat after mixing it with the sugar and yolks; I heated it up over high heat instead, and so, when the eggnog neared completion, I smelled burned milk. Fortunately, it was only a bit that sticked to the bottom of the saucepan and didn't affect the drink's flavor.

I added the vanilla essence after, rather than before, straining, but this didn't make any difference. I first tried the eggnog without alcohol and, then, I poured in a little Johnnie Walker Red Label whisky. The flavor once again turned out like one of a very sweet, though not cloying, dessert - probably because of the spices. With the added liquor, it turned out really flavorful.

It is a calory bomb, for sure, and probably best to drink in winter than in summer, which is the season when Christmas takes place in the Southern Hemisphere. Be that as it may, a glass of eggnog was a new experience for me, a one worth trying!